Formulating hair conditioners with ecological or natural certification presents several challenges due to restrictions on ingredient selection and performance expectations. Conventional conditioners rely on synthetic cationic surfactants, such as quaternary ammonium compounds (e.g., behentrimonium chloride), to provide detangling and softness. However, many of these ingredients are not allowed in natural or organic formulations due to their potential environmental impact and biodegradability concerns.
To achieve similar conditioning effects, formulators must turn to plant-based alternatives, such as esterified fatty acids, lecithins, or naturally derived cationic agents from renewable sources, such as Brassicyl Isoleucinate Esylate or Ethyl Lauroyl Arginate. Although more sustainable, these alternatives pose challenges such as lower efficacy, reduced rinse-off performance, and stability issues. Additionally, they are much less cost-effective.
Furthermore, the absence of silicones—widely used in conventional conditioners to add shine and control frizz—further complicates the development of natural conditioners that meet consumer expectations. Instead, formulators resort to alternatives such as broccoli seed oil, abyssinian oil, or hemisqualane, which mimic the smoothing properties of silicones while complying with ecological certification standards.
Several brands have successfully launched certified natural or organic conditioners that meet consumer expectations without including any cationic surfactants. Balancing good sensory attributes, such as softness and manageability, while meeting ecological certification standards requires advanced formulation strategies. Optimized emulsification systems, synergistic ingredient combinations, and innovations in green chemistry continue to play a key role in the development of effective natural hair conditioners.
